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In November 2003, I had the opportunity of a lifetime. I got to visit Cuba on a U.S. government-sanctioned cultural exchange trip. Up to that point, my life had intertwined with many Cubans who fled the island and settled in New York, Puerto Rico or Miami where I spent most of my time. I, therefore, knew much about Cuba, but not firsthand. In fact, I used to say it was “la lastima de mi vida” (life’s disappointment) that I had not had the opportunity to visit Cuba. A little melodramatic, perhaps, but I was that passionate about it. Sadly, when I did get to go in 2003, it was a drastically different Cuba than it was in 1959 when Castro took over. The glory days were long gone.
My trip was a half-dozen years before I started blogging but I wrote a travel essay at the time which I made part of the ‘travel retropspective’ category on FOODalogue. I have not edited it. It stands as I wrote it 7 years ago. I invite you to see Cuba as I saw it then.
These photos are not from the 1950s as they might seem. They were taken during my 2003 trip and show life in Cuba as it was when I visited.
The models of cars on the streets had not been updated in 5 decades.
Laptops? They hadn’t even progressed to electric typewriters.
Tourists ride the bus; locals either rely on their own 2 legs, one of those “classic” cars or the assistance of 4-legged creatures.
• • •
On to our Culinary Tour. Living in South Florida, life is widely (and wildly) influenced by the Cuban community… from the coffee that we drink, to the music that we listen to, to the restaurants we patronize and the clubs we dance in…to my kitchen. I’ve presented many Nuevo Latino and Cuban-inspired dishes on FOODalogue before so for this stop on the tour I really didn’t feel like making lechon (pork) or ropa vieja (shredded beef) — though I hope someone else does. 
Instead, I put on Cuban music…some Celia Cruz with La Sonora Matancera from the old days followed by other favorites like Willie Chirino and Gloria Estefan, popular Cuban-Americans living in Miami. And then I salsa-ed my way into the kitchen to see what I could find to prepare for this stop.
Enchilado de Pescado (Snapper in a Spicy Creole Sauce)
1 whole Red Snapper filleted and sectioned in 3-4 inch pieces
Goya tomato sauce
garlic
onion
red peppers or pimentos
bay leaf
cilantro
oregano
splash of white wine
couple of capfuls of vinegar (white or cider)
fresh lime juice
Sazón or adobo seasoning
red chile flakes
Goya hot sauce
capers
Spanish olives
Season fish with olive oil, s+p, Sazón and lime juice and let sit about 15 minutes while you prepare and saute onion, garlic and peppers. Sear fish. Add liquids, other seasonings and condiments. Doesn’t take long to cook (15-20 minutes).
Serve with boiled white rice and/or cassava. The dish definitely needs the white rice and starchiness of the cassava to absorb the spice and richness of the creole sauce.
Microwave cassava in water to cover till tender, then dry thoroughly on paper towels before cutting into slices and pan frying with a little oil to crisp outside. Salt liberally.
Finishing Touch: Add some more tropical flavors by topping with diced avocado, a sprinkle of chopped cilantro, and a squeeze of lime juice which adds a little acidity and balances it all out.
Round-Up: Wednesday, March 10
Last Stop: Puerto Rico, on or about March 15
19 Comments
Delighted that you made it to Cuba. Canada has no embargo on Cuba and I hear the Miami Cubans are softening their stance (a bit).
Their cuisine is unique and not like the other Latin countries in our sphere.
This absolutely makes my mouth water – looks soooo yummy!
I love your pics from Cuba (were they taken on film?)…and the dish you prepared looks amazing. Love the spicy sauce with the pescado.
So appetizing and mouth watering.
I agree with ap269
Amazing. That is truly the trip of a lifetime. I love your photos. Thanks for sharing.
Now that’s how you eat a red snapper! Just wonderful Joan.
Traveling to Cuba (via Canada) in 1996 was one of the best travel experiences of my life. I’m aching to go back.
Oh wow……unbelievable. Nigerians would not believe the photos of Cuba if they saw it. As far as most of them are concerned, being ‘abroad’ is heaven….and they would see Cuba as ‘abroad’! Love the fish and the sauce….bright and fresh and hot….all at once!
I love those pictures!!!Love the fish dish. I posted my entry today!
Cuba is one of my favourite places on the planet. We were there in 2004 and I am sure it has not changed since we were both there. One of the friendliest places on the planet.
How neat that you actually got to visit Cuba! The snapper sounds excellent with this spicy sauce!
What a great visit! I’ve read so much about Cuba but never visited. Your snapper dish looks delicious too. I love those flavors!
You’re right about that Peter!! Our food is like no other Latin country! I’m not being biased here, seeing as though I wasn’t raised in Havana! I just know good food when I have some! Joan, ironically, mami made ropa vieja this past weekend while they were here visiting but I didn’t take any pictures of it, otherwise I sure would have joined this week’s tour destination and shared that dish—one of my faves. I love your passion for our culture, food, music and history, albeit a sad one. I’m glad you’ve seen and broken bread with my people, first hand.
Wow, what a trip! Looks amazing!
Yum I love Cuban food, thanks for the great recipe. Love the pics and story of you trip to Cuba.
Aaaahhh, what great memories Joan! I also travelled to Cuba 18 years ago and I loved, loved the people, the food, the decadent cars and buildings and their life spirit!
I do hope I can catch the train here, still have to look for a recipe.
Thanks for all your comments in my blog Joan. I appreciate that. Hope I can pay you back whenever you visit Barcelona
This story made me both happy and sad all at once… Happy to see “current” images of my mother’s homeland and sad that I have not yet been … Cubans are Passionate,Vibrant, Loving and Fun people and it shows in the cuisine… Thank you for this Culinary Tour. XO
I love your blog…and your pics of Cuba are real nice. My mom was in Cuba….about 1957 and said it was really beautiful back then. Unfortunately Castro ruined it. One day I would love to go to Cuba and have started to make some Cuban dishes.
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